Kitten Update

Well the little guys have names now:
Batman - The dark tabby boy
Luke - The normal tabby boy
Leia - The normal tabby girl

Ta-da!

Batman's health went up for awhile, and yesterday he even started sitting up and attempting to walk around (instead of crawling).  This is actually stunning to me, because he opened his eyes before the other tabbies too, and now he's showing better motor abilities despite being noticeably behind in growth.  They were 14 days old Tuesday (since now it's technically Wednesday), and until today Batman was actively nursing (means he's in less pain) and momma was frequently grooming his genitals (means she doesn't think he's going to die).

Unfortunately, he's had a rough day today.  It's been tough to get him to eat and requires several minutes of stroking first.  He sleeps with the others but his tummy isn't as round and his chest feels flattened, almost.  He's even been making cries that aren't as pained as that one scary day, but definitely not normal "I'm hungry, where's momma" cries.  It takes several tries of placing him on mom's nipple before he'll eat, and it seems like he's easily distracted from it, turning his head to wander and cry.  At least he takes kmr better, even if it's only a few drops at a time.  Usually kmr will at least get his tummy going and he'll be better about nursing.

We're looking into increasing the humidity as well as the temperature, which we've noticed is far better for him at around 80-82 F than the 77 it sometimes falls to.  We have a space heater with a thermostat pointed away from the cage and a temperature gauge inside of it.  When stores open in the morning we'll pick up a little humidifier and see if we can help those lungs out a little bit.  Cross your fingers!

As far as Penny - we finally have the money for her surgery!!  She's getting her leg fixed up next Tuesday, the 15th.  It's going to be frustrating, and I anticipate a lot of "surprise" costs, but at least it won't hurt her anymore.  Here's hoping they can do a repair!  :)

And now...a comic.

Sharing the bed.

-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~


P.S. -  Kitten Valentine's Day cards are up on my Etsy here.

Kitten Drama

Well, four beautiful, seemingly healthy kittens were all born Tuesday afternoon, one week ago:

Nursing

My all-time favorite kitten picture

Kissin'

Nursing...the wrong side of mum

As you can see, we had two tabbies, one very dark tabby (he looks black, with stripes), and one black kitten who might have had a little bit of striping on her front legs.

Unfortunately, yesterday afternoon I went in to check on them and found the black kitten upside down and passed away.  It was absolutely heartbreaking to watch mom looking around for it when I took it out, but I had to remove it immediately.  Without any concept of what sort of health background these guys or mom had, all I could do was guess.  I recalled that the black kitten had been mewing more than usual and crawling all around the kennel that morning, and took the kitten and my phone to go call to price a necropsy.

A necropsy is a good idea whenever other animals might be in jeopardy.  Yes, sometimes kittens "just die," but if there are three others at stake and such an unknown health status, it's important to know what caused it if possible.  If you think you may need to get a pet necropsied, be sure and refrigerate (not freeze!) it immediately and try to get the procedure arranged within 24 hours so there is minimal tissue decay.

In this case, we called the woman for whom I am fostering these cats, particularly concerned about the mewing and howling the dark striped kitten was making that worried me he had the same condition.  She gave us the number of a vet out of town that had seen the other hoarded cats, and we hopped in the car and made the 30 minute drive out to the sticks.  We brought the dead kitten in a plastic bag, in case it could be of use.  Twice on the drive alone, the dark kitten had to be held and stroked to convince it to stop screaming.

We finally arrived and brought in the kittens, where the vet first thought the dark kitten was only crying because it was hungry or needed to urinate (something mom isn't quite as good about doing for them as nursing).  However, it soon started screaming again and she had a look at it.  It calmed down after being peed and put back with mom, so she decided to take a look at the dead kitten for clues.  The intestines showed it had been being fed regularly and didn't have any problems there, but further investigation showed massively damaged lungs.  They were the same color as the liver...which should definitely not happen.  The kitten had died of pneumonia.

It was difficult to impossible to tell if the dark striped kitten had the same problem and if so, if it would recover.  The dead kitten also showed signs of being pigeon-chested, a genetic deformity that happens in people as well and can make it just that much more difficult for the sick kitten.  So, with fingers and toes crossed, our only options for treatment are two shots of penicillin (one that day and the other tomorrow) and supportive care - frequent attempts at feeding, manually stimulating urination, and keeping the room they were in at a balmy 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

So far it's been about 24 hours and dark kitten has only screamed once, and that was when I tried to feed it two hours after coming home.  Actually, I haven't been supplementing because I can convince it to nurse about once every 30-45 minutes on its own.  I supplement momma with KMR and if I can find it, L-lysine, a medication that is great for helping breakouts of herpesvirus, or rhinotracheitis in cats.  It's better if I can get the kitten to eat naturally, because I don't want to risk aspiration of the KMR into the lungs, which might compound a lung infection into a lethal problem in a very, very short time.  Since we're by no means out of the woods, though, I have the KMR on hand for in case it isn't eating enough.

Herpesvirus, which displays as a recurrent respiratory infection in cats, is most active at temperatures just below normal body heat.  So, by keeping the room at that 80 degrees like I mentioned, we can keep the air going into the kitten lungs warmer than usual.  This may seem like it's bad for pneumonia, but actually, it's going to help the little kitten immune system fight its best battle.  Speaking of, interesting fact - apparently the first kitten or two to be born obtain more colostrum, so naturally have more robust immune systems.  This is why the last two kittens in this case seem to be having a harder time fighting off something that hasn't manifested clinically in the other two.  Voila.  I learned something.

Here are the three little survivors, the black one being my biggest concern (but fighting a great fight!):

I'll keep you guys posted.

Oh, by the way!  I just found out that Penny is going to be receiving at least $300 from a GLC fundraiser!!!  It's not official yet, so I haven't added it into the total, but wouldn't $670 be an amazing number to see?  We are almost there!  :)

See you guys soon,
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

Kitten Milk Replacement

Kitten Milk Replacement, or KMR, is like magic.

Technically this stuff is ONLY for felines, but if you have a rodent in desperate need of protein, milk, or nutrients, this stuff saves lives where nothing else can.  I supply it to pregnant and nursing mice, I give it to sick mice, and in the past it has made the difference for orphaned mice who had nothing else to drink.  And yes, it's even helped save the lives of some orphaned kittens - it's original intent.

It's basically...magic.

When using it for cats, I mix a small bit of evaporated KMR with warm water and blend that into a small amount of wet kitten food.  Part of the reason KMR is so amazing is that unlike cow's milk or infant solution, KMR is lactose-free.  Kitten tummies, and most small animal tummies in fact, can't handle lactose and this can make them gassy or dehydrated (by giving them diarrhea).  Another solution is to add lactase, the enzyme that breaks down lactose, in order to make different forms of milk more digestible, but I prefer mixing KMR into other foods.

KMR is also great for...say...pregnant mothers like Ghost.  Pregnant cats need to eat a lot more protein - kitten food, KMR, and a fresh water supply are all vital to helping her produce milk and build up enough strength to have a successful pregnancy (not to mention she's feeding all those little ones inside of her, too!).

There's more of a difference in kinds of milk than just lactose, though.  Milk from different animals (cow, sheep, goat, etc.) contain different types and amounts of fat.  This fat is important to both mom and babies, as is the protein, so when possible it's important to stick to the right species.  KMR is specifically formulated for cats (in fact, it's against the label to use it differently) and has exactly what they need in it. SO....if you can use KMR, that's your best bet.

Of course, never forget that kittens and any other infant animal (people included) NEED the first 24-48 hours of milk from mom.  This milk is called colostrum and is full of antibodies that protect the kittens from many diseases until they are several weeks old (before which vaccines will only be destroyed by the kitten's natural immunities).  If you know your cat has a disease transmissible by suckling, check with your veterinarian long before the kittens arrive for advice.  It is never advisable to simply skip natural nursing for the first 1-2 days.

So yes!  KMR is amazing stuff.  I have some in my fridge every month of the year - when emergencies come up it's great to have on hand!  :)  By the way, Ghost is doing wonderfully.  No signs of labor yet and she seems to be in wonderful health.  She ate a ton of kitten kibble last night and has been taking regular meals of KMR in watered-down wet food.  She's also quite busy rearranging her nest and, much to my dismay, dragging towels into her litter box.  She is very sociable now, rolling completely over and purring when I pet her, and luckily the investigation is moving in full-swing right now and it doesn't look like anyone is going to try and move her from here.  Hopefully her shocks are done with for awhile.

"Yeeeessss...Pet me moooorrrre.  And look at my niiipppppplleesss... I am so fat and pregnaaaant..."

 Later Gators.
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

It's Barely Humor

Sassy has been renamed for the time being.  I learned some more about her situation, and after staring at those miserable eyes for a certain amount of time, you realize Ghost is the only appropriate name.  In time, I hope it's a joke about the past.

The Home
I should really say house.  No place like that could be called a home.  It was so much worse than we were told, and I consider myself blessed that I did not have to be there.

It took them a long time just to shovel enough crap (I don't mean junk, I mean crap) out of the way of the door so they could enter.  It turns out 65 cats, a few dogs, and several birds were only what was left after many animals and several pounds of feces had already been removed.  The house was a one-bedroom.  There was no place in the entire house in which the feces came below your knees.  The cats were in horrible condition, several of them not able to make it through the night if they weren't removed immediately.  One had to be put down.

According to the woman heading the operation, several of the cats had such severe disease or deformity that she could not even name some of the illnesses.  She says these are things she has never seen before, outside of horror or science fiction films.  She spent all day there.

The landlord apparently has no clue, and that's why the woman came to the rescue in the first place asking for the cats to be rehomed by Wednesday.  There is no way for him not to know now.  The place is probably going to have to be burned and rebuilt if you ask me.

The woman had no clue there was a problem.  She asked the rescue head, "Is it really that bad?"

Hoarders have mental addictions to hoarding.  It's a disorder.  It's included in the DSM as symptoms of a variety of problems.  She can't SEE that she doesn't love them, that if she did, she wouldn't treat them that way.  She can't SEE that it isn't normal.

Having a lot of pets is one thing.  If you had fifty pets and they all had fresh food, water, and habitat and all saw a vet when they needed, you'd still be fine in my book.  But if you have so many pets that you have knee-high crap in your home?  If 20-something of them have been fixed, but no one else has seen a vet even when it means death?  If you can't live without 8 of your 65 remaining cats, and all it took to START this was 8 unfixed cats?

You have a problem.

So in any case, today an investigation starts.  Rescue-lady has a collection of photos from yesterday and several of the cats into a vet (with before-documentation).  She spends today and tomorrow building the case and intends to crack the whip all at once, in one fell swoop, right before the hoarder woman leaves the state.  With luck and a bit of law, she won't be able to take the cats, dogs, birds, and others with her to TN.  I'm sure that seems unfair, to take away all her pets, but with only one of the cats she's taking being fixed, we would not be doing them ANY favors by letting them leave with her.  Normally I disagree with a lot of pet laws, and the humane society is NO friend of mine.  But this time - for the cats, we need every ounce of help we can get to keep them alive and rehabilitate them.

Ghost Last Night
Ghost was...well...a ghost last night.  No, she isn't dead.  Watching her was spooky, though.  She was so depressed she wouldn't move.  Wouldn't twitch an ear when you snapped, wouldn't look when you spoke or walked in.  I put water in front of her and tapped the surface to get her to see it was there and fresh - her glazed eyes floated slowly up and stared into mine, then drifted slowly off like she was in another world.  I could make no connection with her - the only thing I could do was feel her mammaries for milk and dab a little water on her lips for her to lick off.  She looked like she'd already died.  It broke my heart.

At first I thought she was tense - waiting to strike out if bothered.  She wasn't.  She was in a literal state of catatonia, unable to respond to anything.



I left her alone, hoping she would start to come to terms with her new environment over the course of the night without unneeded prodding by me.

Ghost Now
I'm happy to say she is doing WAY better this morning.  First, she now responds to things, even if not overwhelmingly so.  I covered the side of her kennel that faces the door so she would feel like she had a little privacy, so when I enter the room I talk to her so she's not surprised.  Ghost does not need anymore surprises.  Now - she actually turns to face you when you come in or talk to her.  When you offer a hand or food, she leans forward to sniff it.  HUGE improvement!  The food and water have been touched, even if not ingested, and the blankets are rearranged - nesting, perhaps?

And this is the BEST part - GHOST USED THE LITTERBOX!

This poor cat, out of a home where dirt was the litter and filth was piled knee-high, was a very good girl and used the box the first time she had to go.  I could not be more proud of her.  She is such a trooper.  I hope her and her kittens get to live out a normal fostering here, and don't need to be yanked away for medical or legal reasons.  She may need to be, depending on how the case goes, and I know they'll do the right thing - but right now I am so hopeful I could cry.

She and her room are under a strict quarantine right now.  My own cat is in a different room, so there can be no under-the-door sniffing.  Nothing goes in or out of the room except me, not even the trash (but there's a window...so if I need to throw out litter that's how it'll reach the dumpster).  Anything that has to, like my hands for instance, faces either a bleach solution, betadine, or 91% alcohol and a wash with hot soapy water, depending on what it is.

One last thing - there MIGHT be a little bit of discharge on the blanket.  Her face is totally clean - no facial discharge, sneezing, or other signs of URI or rhino or anything.  Could babies be on the way?  I'll have to watch her closely today.  At least now I know that her mind is a little more present, and she may even be able to handle having them.  And if not, I have a good shot at her getting close enough to me to be able to assist if she needs it.




Fingers crossed!!
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

Sassy

Just a heads up - this blog may be making a very slight shift.  I love writing instructional or informative posts, like ones on medications, foods, litters, etc., but I only get around to that so often.  I'd love to start including posts related to rescue, veterinary stuff (I'm really loving the vet tech courses and would love to share some of that with you guys!), and sometimes a bit more about my critters, since my experiences shouldn't just teach me - they should help others, too.

So anyways, here we go:


Penny Update!
     We have about $380 right now, and are slowly but surely working our way up to that $900 number.  I know $1,000 was our goal, but the second we have enough to get her in, I want to.  The longer we wait, the more it scars over, and the less chance we have (if we had any to begin with) of repair.  If you know ANYONE you can pass her story on to, please let them know.  You can donate to her cause on the right-hand side of the page or at her website.  In the meantime, she's being her typical, goofball self.  :)


Sassy
     Let me start of Sassy's story...not even with Sassy.  Actually, it really begins with my mum.  My mum went to the hair salon a couple of weeks ago and noticed a cat with a collar but  no tags desperately trying to get into the salon.  The employees were quite annoyed with it and said it had been coming around for a few weeks.  They told her she was declawed.

Well, my mum went back the next day with a carrier and kitty hopped right in.  She was extremely affectionate, and my mom did everything right trying to find her home.  No takers.  So my mom watches as the vet bills stack up with all the things that go along with rescuing a lost or stray cat - tests, shots, tags, and the big S - Spaying.

BUT...kitty puts on a little weight and my mom starts to wonder if she's preggo.  My mother wants to get her spayed anyways, but I convince her to determine for sure if she is or not first, offering to help if there are little ones on the way.  We get everything set up and await the call.  Turns out she's not preggo after all, though my mum is still complaining about the cost.  :\  Welcome to the world of rescue, mum!


Now, a few days after that cat's surgery, I see a post on Facebook from a woman I know at the rescue that we're working with for Penny, explaining an emergency situation.  A woman in town with SIXTY-FIVE CATS IN HER HOUSE is moving to Tennessee and stopped by the shelter to ask if they'd take in the 57 she didn't want.  28 are fixed, none have vet records, and one is pregnant and going to pop any second now.  No.  No shelter will take 57 cats.  Heck, our animal control/humane society can only take 50 per day, and that's from everywhere in the county.  When do they have to be gone by (because her landlord doesn't know about them)?  WEDNESDAY.

Look...I have worked with that many cats before.  I worked in a shelter with about 50-60 cats per house spread out over two houses and a barn.  That took about 50 or 60 litter boxes EASILY, isolation was hell, records were complicated, and it took about 3 or 4 employees plus the owner to take care of that many cats every day.  Boxes were scooped twice daily and it took a few hours.  Imagine filling that many water and food bowls (and yes, they HAD water and food bowls).  Just imagine that many cats for a second.

This woman had 65 in her house WITH her and her husband.  Neither is wealthy and the house is no mansion.  For litter she used dirt.  Half the cats have upper respiratory infections and no attempt at medication or isolation has been made whatsoever.  The fact that only one cat was pregnant was a damned miracle.  They must have done some strategic fixing, or maybe that's why they HAVE so many cats.  Ages between 2 months and 8 years.  The cats were flipping out in the house, but the second they were removed?  Calm.  They were dying, literally, to get out of there.

I try to give people the benefit of the doubt, I really do.  Things get out of hand sometimes, even to very good, normally responsible people.  But if it were up to me, that woman would not be allowed to take any of the cats with her on the move, let alone eight, no matter what that means we have to do with them.  She's only taking one that's fixed.  Next thing you know, Tennessee is going to be handling a woman with 60 or more cats in one home.  Pray someone smells it and reports her to the authorities before she hurts or neglects anymore cats.

Since we were all prepped and ready to go for my mom's cat, my fiance and I had a brief talk and I contacted her to volunteer to foster the mom and her litter.  I spent the entire night and morning re-cleaning the room she'd go in, moving the other critters out so she'd have peace and quiet, and setting up a big wire kennel filled with soft blankies and towels, a shallow litter pan, a water dish and a bowl full of kitten kibble.  I readied the KMR, covered half the kennel for privacy and security, and went to pick up momma cat.  It was a lot of work, but hopefully she'll have a little less stress and be able to have a safe, healthy delivery when the time is right.

This was about an hour ago.  I now have momma cat (ready to pop any minute now, according to the woman who pulled her from the hellhole house) all tucked into her new home.  It took me a long, long time to get her to come out  of the carrier - she was practically catatonic with worry.  She explored her new home and settled in quickly.  She is a beautiful, black, young kitty with gorgeous eyes, and I hope with all my heart that she didn't catch a URI from the sick cats of the house.  No more dirt litter boxes for her.  No more crowded homes, no more litters after this one, and no more neglect.  Sassy is going to have real meals every day, vet visits, tags, and paperwork, she and her babies are going to find amazing homes.  Let's just get through this pregnancy.


I'll keep you guys updated on both Penny and now Sassy, and when the little ones come along I'll share the experience with all of you.  :)

This is a happy ending!

-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

She Has a Name!

We decided to go with Penelope, or Penny for short, as a name for our new little girl.  The surgery is going to be really expensive, so we're hoping to raise a little money amongst our friends to help us pay for it.  Hopefully we can get her fixed up before Christmas!

If you have a spare few dollars you can give, we would really appreciate it.  I put up a button on the right side of the page that should make donating simple and confidential.  Any and all money that is offered will go straight to Penny's surgery, and if we're fortunate enough to raise more than we need, all extra donations will go to God's Little Creatures shelter.  Times are tough for us, but we really feel that Penny deserves relief from her pain no matter what state our finances might be in.  She's got a lotta love, that one!

The first introductions have been made between her and Basement Cat, but so far Base isn't too thrilled.  Her tail puffs out like a raccoon whenever she hears Penny's tail thumping in the kennel.  So far we're still at safe introductions - when the cat is out, the dog is kenneled, so that the cat can feel a little less threatened and see that dog doesn't have to mean scary.

As for our bunny - those introductions aren't going to happen period if I can help it.  I know you can train most animals to get along, but when both are adopted and you're not sure about socialization - it's not a good idea to put predator and prey in the same room.  Maybe this will change in the future, but there are no current plans.

Penny is already packing on a little weight, and she's really settled in.  She's the smiliest thing you've ever seen!  When you have an adult dog that is underweight, and if you're certain the cause isn't a disease or intestinal parasite, the best food to feed is one with a high level of protein.  Puppy feed is good, since they need to eat so much more than adult dogs to grow, the calories that are there are all very useful and easily to digest.  For the same reasons puppy food is bad for normal or overweight dogs, it's excellent for underweight ones.  We're also including a lot of meaty, healthy scraps and canned food when we can, and feeding through a few small meals per day rather than a bunch at once.  We don't want to overwhelm her or anything.  Also, as odd as it sounds, it's better that she doesn't gain weight TOO fast, since she's moving on three legs right now.  Vet's words, not mine.  >.>

There's one last thing I want to talk about today:

Snakes!

Our adult yellow rat snake hasn't been eating for a few weeks, so it's a good time to talk about brumation.  Brumation is when snakes and some other reptiles basically hibernate for the winter.  Unlike other hibernating animals, though, they don't sleep more - they are simply less active and may not eat for months at a time.  This usually happens if it gets cold suddenly, if they don't have enough heat for a while, or if the light period decreases.  It tells their body it's going to get cold, their metabolism slows down, and they don't need as much food.

They still drink and can be handled, and you don't need to worry unless they become skinny.  Snakes that prefer to stay burrowed under substrate, or ones that aren't yet mature, might not notice subtle changes and may still need to eat.  Keep offering, just don't be surprised if during the winter time your reptiles aren't up for food.

Have an awesome weekend!
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

New...dog...?

Actually, there are two new animals in my life right now.  My cat still hasn't come back, and it's ruining me, so perhaps I'm making ill judgements.



First is a cat.  No, I'm not keeping her.  We met her in the middle of a road walking out toward a fishing spot.  My friend and I played with her for a sec, then headed out to fish.  She followed the whole way.  Then she hung out while we fished, drinking from the lake (the weather was about 50 degrees F, it was impressive that she could without complaining) and worrying me whenever she checked out my tackle box.

We weren't going to do anything about her, figuring she was a free-roaming cat of one of the residents of the area.  She was thin but not unhealthy and had a great coat.  She's got that crazy-long tail and ear fur.  Anyways, she then followed us all the way back to the house we were visiting, so we asked them about her.  They said it came around for food all the time, but they weren't sure if it was a stray or belonged to someone.  They, my fiance, and my friends all convinced me to take her home and get her scanned for a microchip, since she didn't have a collar.

She freaked out pretty hard about being in the apartment, but eventually she's calmed down and she's doing well now.  No chip, unfortunately, but hopefully by the end of the weekend we'll either found out who owns her or get her settled some place she belongs and is comfortable.



Then, there's the dog.  While looking through found ads for my cat, I came across an ad for a found pitbull.  I checked it out because our city is very prejudiced against pits and similar breeds, and have a virtually zero tolerance for them.  You can keep them (but not in apartments), but a lost pit that makes it to the pound is unlikely to come out again.  The poster responded to an email from me, and it turns out the pit was hit by a car and sustained injuries to her back leg, hip, and at least one rib.  It wasn't recent, though, and she's getting along alright.  The woman who found her can't afford to keep her, and I knew I simply had to help.

I have a little extra cash on me because of the way our bills panned out this month, so I'm helping to get her an x-ray next week.  I talked with my fiance, and once he saw her, he agreed we could adopt her.  The woman at the shelter we met at offered to help raise money to get her any needed surgeries, shots, and tests, and we discovered she was already spayed.  She's good with cats, though I'm not going to be able to let our rabbit out around her, obviously.  It looks...it looks like we're getting a dog.

It's still a question mark, especially since I really didn't think we could afford one for another long while, and because our apartment isn't pro-pitbulls.  We're not intending to stay here very long, though, so hopefully it won't be an issue.  I don't know, it's a lot very suddenly.  I thought we were just going to help with the x-ray, but as soon as my fiance saw her, he just said "yes."

I'm terrified of what it'll cost, but I'm absolutely in love with her.  I missed my chance to help the last dog I had an opportunity to, and I'm not making the same mistake.  Hopefully we'll have a new addition to our family soon.  I'll definitely keep you guys updated on how it all goes, and anything that I learn along the way.  I haven't been able to keep a dog of my own since I was a very small child, so this will be really exciting!

Our new potential puppy-dog, in her ad photo

I can't believe this is really happening!

-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

Kitty Litter

I've been on a quest lately to discover the ideal litter.

So far I've tried pretty much the whole range of clay litters, from super fine to non-clumping (ugh!), from deodorized to scentless.  I have decided that - I hate almost all clay litters.

There are a few that I love and my cats do, too, but I've sort of found that the finer litters absorb liquid the quickest - resulting in smaller, tighter clumps that are easier to scoop.  Unfortunately - this is the *worst* to get out of your carpet.  It's like confetti.  You're never getting it all up.  And it's a whole new world of suck if you spill water on it (thank you, cats).

Now I'm experimenting with non-clay litters.  I didn't think this was an affordable option until I tried one of my local grocery stores, which apparently has an absolutely stunning and affordable pet section.  We're talking better than the pet store.  Now I could choose from pine, cedar, recycled newspaper, wheat, silica sand, and even corn cob!

There's another reason I'm switching litters around, and it plays a part in why I chose to try the one I did next.  I have a Californian rabbit, named Peanut, and now that we've moved apartments his play areas intersect with cat boxes.  HIS litter is usually either carefresh or (now trying) recycled newspaper litter, since rabbits frequently eat in their litter boxes and anything clay or clumping can cause impaction.  Therefore...I'm a little wary of letting him play around the new and interesting cat box - that's filled with deadly clumping clay litter.

Because I have numerous small animals and am extremely aware of the risks of pine and cedar, that left me with recycled newspaper, silica sand, wheat, and corn.  Wheat was right out, since the package warned some animals love to eat it for the wheat smell and Sam, my tabby, loves anything he thinks is bread-related.  I decided to go with the silica sand because it's the only one I haven't witnessed make a strong odor after a couple of days of use, although I am completely willing to give the others a chance in the cat box if this one doesn't work out.

The interesting thing about it is the pieces are gigantic, like little crystals.  Most are clear-white, while some are an opaque blue.  It gives a toothpastey feel - very clean, very sterile, very bathroom-friendly.  I was worried my two cats wouldn't like the feel of standing on hard, possibly sharp crystals instead of fine clay particles, but they really don't seem to mind.  In fact, the younger one loves the noise it makes.  Ooh, that's another thing - it's a wake-you-up sort of loud noise when they dig in it.  Kind of a con.

So how is it on doing it's real job?  Well, so far the major difference has been that the crystals absorb liquid rather than clump together and get hard.  It's sort of like each one just soaks it all up and doesn't let go of it.  You're supposed to scoop it all around and blend it together each morning so no one area gets over-wetted.  It pretty much just dehydrates waste.  So far I'm not entirely sure how to scoop through such large particulates, but I have a feeling I'll find out in the morning!

Some quick litter tips:

- Keep a minimum of one box per cat, and if you have a spacious enough area, two each will make your life easier.  When a cat thinks the box is full they may go elsewhere, or simply try to hold it in - which can lead to bladder infections.

- Scoop the box once a day, topping off as needed, and change it at least once a month.  Leaving poo in there not only increases your chances of it filling up and the kitties going in your plants, but is just icky.  It's like not flushing your toilet for a few days - ew!

- Lower quality clay litter may clump on its own in humid weather and cause difficulty scooping.  If this is a problem for you, try switching brands or type.

- Higher priced litter is not always higher quality...but sometimes it is.

- If you have extra litter you didn't like, donating it to a local animal shelter is a wonderful idea.  They can always use supplies!  Same goes for when you upgrade boxes.

- Scooping daily will also help you keep an eye on any problems that might come up like worms or loose stools.  If you come across any issues in the box, bag a sample and take it into your vet to get it tested.  Letting diarrhea continue for more than a couple of days can cause serious problems and not a small amount of discomfort - for both of you.

-Miss Mouse

<:3 )~~

Pets and House Plants

If you've ever had a cat at the same time as a house plant - you know how frustrating it can be!  Everyone has tips and tricks to keep kitties out of plants, and here's what I do.

For cats who like to dig up the soil or go to the bathroom in it - try adding rocks around the base of the plant.  Make sure to rinse them first and take care in what kind of rock you use (or paint them first with something water-proof), as watering over some rocks can drip hard minerals into your soil that might be bad for the plants.

For kitties who like to sit in plants, like my Sam does (completely killed my oregano, mmhm), buy some cheap bamboo skewers from the grocery or dollar store and snap them in half.  Push them into the soil about a half-inch to an inch apart.  Since paws are very sensitive, they won't want to step in it, and placing them closely together ensures they aren't going to just dig it up (yes, he did that, too, trial and error!).  Clip any splintery bits away before inserting them so they don't get splinters, just in case!

Lastly, for kitties who love to EAT the plants, you have two resources.  First and foremost, check out the ASPCA's Toxic and Nontoxic plant list to make certain your plants are safe.  Place unsafe plants outdoors or in rooms your pets aren't allowed.  You can always buy a new plant, but losing your furry friend just isn't worth risking!

Second, consider using a smelly deterent, or something that coats the leaves in a nasty flavor.  Several options are available, but I haven't had to try it yet (knock on wood!) so I don't have any recommendations.  Check your pet store and your plant shop!  :)

Hopefully this will keep both your plants and your pets safe from each other, and you from going crazy!  Don't forget to use organic and animal-friendly pesticides if your plants require de-bugging.  I just tried out a nifty product that's made of plant oils that kill bugs but are safe for pets - very cool!

Have a great week!

-Miss Mouse

<:3 )~~

Bringing a New Pet Home - Part One

My boyfriend and I have been checking out houses for a while now to find our perfect first home.  With much more space than our little apartment affords, we were toying with the idea of perhaps getting our first puppy along with it.  Not *quite* sure yet, but we've both always wanted a border collie.  :)

This got me thinking, so this Saturday and next I'll be rambling about the fun, but important, things to cover before and after bringing home your new friend.  :D

Today - Preparing for your new pet!

Do Your Research
And I'm not talking about asking the store employee which lizard will suit you best five minutes before bringing one home, either.  Before you ever buy a cage or go look at the shop's animals, get on the world wide web and start digging around for info to help you decide if you and that animal are a good match.  Here are some great questions to research:

     - What does the critter need for food?

     - What does the critter need for caging, litter, or space?

     - What do they need for companionship and exercise?

     - Do you have the time and money to exceed its needs?

     - Do they get along with any other pets you may have?

It's important to look at more than just one website for your information, in case the person or company publishing it doesn't have as much info as someone else, or is writing under a misconception.  Once you are certain you can meet and exceed all of the animal's requirements, can care for any friends it might require (like social animals that need to be purchased in pairs or colonies), and are aware of all of its habitat or medical requirements, it's time to move on to the next step.

Set Up the Cage or Supplies FIRST

As exciting as it is to bring your new pet home right away, it's important that your home be prepared.  It can be stressful to both you and the animal if you have to watch it while setting up its new home.  Have whatever litter box, food bowl, bed, cage, or other supplies completely prepared so the animal can relax for a little without the added activity.  This is especially important for fish - have an isolation tank set up and completely cycled before ever purchasing your new aquatic pet.

This actually leads to the last step for pre-pet preparations...

Proof the House Before Problems Arise

If your new pet is an out-of-the-cage sort,  like a bunny, puppy, kitten, ferret, etc., it will quickly become necessary to critter-proof anything in the house within reach...BEFORE damage to the house or the pet becomes an issue.  How to proof?

For cats, the biggest problem is usually scratching, climbing, or knocking things over.  I am painfully familiar with this one, and so is my denim couch!  Before your kitten or cat comes home, go through anywhere in the house they will have access to looking for:  exposed wires, glass or fragile things on counters, shelves, or desks, and any other pets the little ball of fur might find appetizing.  It's also a good idea to have extra litter boxes around the house, at least one per room, so no accidents occur.  Obviously, remove any poisons or household chemicals from reach.  If you have furniture you'd prefer not be scratched up or climbed on, most pet shops sell a spray that smells funky to cats, or you can rely on the tried and true squirt bottle method.

For puppies, it's a bit less of a climbing issue and more of a potty, chewing, and floor issue.  Once again, remove any exposed wires (or cover them), chemicals, or fragile things near to the ground.  If you have hardwood floors that need to not be scratched, keep the dog's nails trimmed and consider a nail cover like Soft Paws.  Potty training will be covered next week.

For rabbits, chewing is by far the biggest issue, followed probably by spraying (when it comes to un-neutered males).  Since rabbits LOVE branches, wires must be covered.  If you have to have some exposed, you can easily cover them using plastic tubes like come in long lengths for fish tanks.  Just slit down the length of the tube and pop it over the wire.  That way, you can watch for chewing before it becomes dangerous.  Keep inappropriate foods, plastic bags, and chemicals off the floor and any furniture the bunbun might be allowed to jump up on.  Papers are another thing to watch out for - they love to tear, and they don't care how important the papers are to you!  ;)  If you have other out-of-cage animals that you're concerned about, keep them in another room until they have been properly introduced and you're positive they can get along. 

For other free-roaming pets, just make sure there isn't anything lying around that can be chewed, messed on, or might be poisonous.  It's just important to have everything prepared so that no serious accidents occur while they're settling in.  :)

Next week I'll cover introducing pets to your home and to other pets, when to start handling your new animal, and how to train and potty train your new small animal.  :)

See you next Caturday!

-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~

P.S. - I know I missed putting up that animal spotlight this Wednesday, I'm sorry.  We've been so busy house-shopping that I didn't have much time to write a good one.  I'm still going to post something up, though, hopefully this week.  ;)

Giving Medications - For The Not-So-Healthy Critter

Happy Caturday!

It turns out my boyfriend's dog Diamond, who resides at his parent's house and we are petsitting this weekend, got a nasty ouchie on her leg last week.  Her vet has prescribed clavamox, a common antibiotic, in pill form to help her ward off infection through the injury.  She *hates* it, and is very sneaky about extracting it from whatever food we've hidden it in, spitting it out, and then eating the medicine-free food!  Here's a couple of pictures of the goofball:

Diamond is a German Shorthaired Pointer, a past champion, and quite the diva.

In the interest of Diamond, I'm going to talk a bit about giving oral medications today to our furry friends who happen to not feel so hot.  Since there are many different kinds of medications and methods of administration, I'm only going to cover a few here, but these should be applicable to several different kinds of pets - not just dogs.

First let me point out that some treatments involve vaccines or shots, and should only be given by a professional vet OR under the instruction of one.  I definitely would not recommend giving shots by yourself unless you've had training and are sure about what you're doing.  :)

When it comes to oral medications, you will likely be prescribed either liquid or pills.  Liquid medications might be flavored or might not, and some can be mixed into wet food, whereas some may need to be given straight.  When giving liquid meds, it's important to either keep the syringe you are giving it with very clean or to use single-use syringes.  The droppers that come on the lid do not need to be washed unless you've brought it into contact with food or the animal, in which case a thorough rinsing under tap water will keep contaminants from getting in the medicine.  For small animals, applying the medicine on a cracker, cheerio, or other quickly-edible treat may make things easier.

Pills also usually come with the option to be given with food, which is a huge plus in my opinion!  The common trick is to wrap the pill in cheese or peanut butter, but occasionally your pet will figure that one out (like Diamond did!).  If the pill is a tablet and not a capsule, you may be allowed to cut it into smaller pieces with a pill cutter (check the instructions, first, as some medications are timed release or need to be digested slower), which might mix better into wet food.  Obviously there are special situations that you would not want to hide the pill in a treat, such as if the problem is already causing digestive system problems.  Few smaller animal medications come in pill form, but it is quite common for larger animals like cats and dogs.

If mixing into food or hiding in a treat is not an option, you might have to give the medicine directly.  If your pet is particularly opposed to this, you'll have to take a bit of a more active approach.  When administering to a dog, remember to stay very cheerful and friendly, and give lots of praise.  Back them against something so they can't back away from you, and if someone is helping you have them hold the shoulder area.  Sit with your arm that will NOT be holding the pill closest to them, and use your non-pill hand to ease open the jaws from above.  Do this by applying gentle pressure behind the canines.  Use your pill hand to open the mouth further by pressing gently downward on the bottom jaw, then place the pill as near the back of the tongue as possible.  Don't drop it down their throat or gag them with your hand, though, just place it on the tongue.  Next, close their mouth and hold it down in a normal position until they swallow.

The idea is pretty much the same for cats, except you will need to use your elbow or a friend to hold them in place while giving them their medicine.  The ribcage is your center of control, but don't squeeze hard or you risk hurting them.  When using a dropper it can be helpful to place it at the side of their mouth and push inward with it gently, so the dropper is the first thing that gets in the cat's mouth, then release the fluid at a reasonable pace to avoid choking them.  Smacking is good, and keeps the liquid medication from falling out of their mouth.  Remember to give lots of praise!

For smaller animals, it's quite common to give medications in the water.  The dosage and method will depend on the medication in question and the animal it's being given to.  Keep in mind, however, that some medicines like tetracycline are light sensitive, so covering the bottle with foil might be a good idea.  Most medicines when given this way will require that the water be changed every 1-3 days to keep it fresh.  Some taste bitter, and depending on the instructions, *might* be able to have some sugar mixed in, but the water will need to be changed every day if so.  To make sure the critter is drinking enough of the water to get the right dose, remove other moist aspects of their diet, but remember to compensate with plenty of other foods to keep their strength up.  Lastly, check with a vet or expert to make sure the medicine is okay to be shared if the animal remains in a cage with other, possibly unaffected individuals.  Antibiotics are usually fine to be shared between small animals in the water, as long as the full course is given, and helps to prevent unnoticed symptoms from becoming worse in cagemates.

Common Medications

Here are some common medications that might come up and some general facts about them.  Because every pet is different, always follow the directions on the product and the advice of a veterinary professional.

Clavamox:  Amoxicillin and Clavulanate work together in this name brand antibiotic to ward off infections in dogs and cats.  It is by prescription only, and comes in pill or liquid form.  Nausea can be counteracted by giving food first.  Diarrhea is common and should be addressed with your vet if severe.

Baytril: I have only used enrofloxacin, or Baytril, for rodents before, but I believe it's also prescribed for a wide variety of other pets.  Baytril is another antibiotic, but should not be given to rodents under 3 months of age.  It may be effective against mycoplasma, but it's debatable.  Baytril is also available by prescription only.

Tylosin: I've used tylosin for mice too young to give Baytril and had moderate success.  Once again, it may be effective against mycoplasma, but it's still debatable.  Tylosin is an excellent antibiotic of choice for many other animals, too, including most pets and livestock.  It can be found at feed stores, but veterinary advice is highly recommended for dosages and mode of administration (available for in-the-water and injection).

Tetracycline: I recommend Tetracycline, yet another antibiotic, for anyone who comes to me with respiratory infections, abscesses, or general infections in their mice and other rodents.  It is light sensitive and should be given in a foil-wrapped water bottle.  It comes in liquid, powder, and capsule form and can be found in the fish section of most pet stores or in feed stores.  Wonderful instructions for administration to mice are available here:  http://en.allexperts.com/q/Mice-3824/2009/4/mouse-injured-cat-antibiotic.htm  I believe it can be used for larger animals, too, but I highly encourage seeking vet advice for instructions on how to give it and how much.

Ivermectine/Flea-Tick-Mite Spray:  This applies mostly to smaller pets, as cats and dogs usually receive other common medications to keep the fleas away.  Mites and other skin parasites can come in on bedding, and can cause quite a problem.  There are various sprays to choose from, but it's important to avoid your pet's eyes, freeze incoming bedding, treat weekly including the cage, and follow the instructions on the product you select.  If the spray seems to strongly irritating to your pet, try a spray for a smaller animal.  I believe avian spray is the mildest.

This is a terrific listing of dosages of various medications for rats:  http://www.rmca.org/Articles/dchart.htm  Obviously there are a LOT more meds than this, and I omitted most of the heartworm, flea, and other medications your vet is likely to inform you about on a regular basis. 

Remember to keep your vet's number on hand for emergencies and questions, to always follow their instructions first, and to keep an eye out for side effects including vomiting the medication.  Never quit a round of antibiotics before it's complete - most are 14-30 days.  Quitting early can encourage resistant bacteria to thrive and make treatment much harder.

Okay...obviously there are thousands of books on vet medicine, and this is JUST a bit of an overview for the typical pet owner trying to get their pets to take their medicine.  If you have any questions or corrections about something I've written, catch me at kittuirrel on yahoo or leave me a comment.  I hope you find this useful!  I promise next week the blog will be a bit less technical and a bit more fun.  ;)

PLUS!  I'm starting an animal spotlight on Wednesday.  The first Wednesday of every month will spotlight a species of pet and their care and tidbits.  :)

Thanks for reading!

Miss Mouse