Kitten Update

Well the little guys have names now:
Batman - The dark tabby boy
Luke - The normal tabby boy
Leia - The normal tabby girl

Ta-da!

Batman's health went up for awhile, and yesterday he even started sitting up and attempting to walk around (instead of crawling).  This is actually stunning to me, because he opened his eyes before the other tabbies too, and now he's showing better motor abilities despite being noticeably behind in growth.  They were 14 days old Tuesday (since now it's technically Wednesday), and until today Batman was actively nursing (means he's in less pain) and momma was frequently grooming his genitals (means she doesn't think he's going to die).

Unfortunately, he's had a rough day today.  It's been tough to get him to eat and requires several minutes of stroking first.  He sleeps with the others but his tummy isn't as round and his chest feels flattened, almost.  He's even been making cries that aren't as pained as that one scary day, but definitely not normal "I'm hungry, where's momma" cries.  It takes several tries of placing him on mom's nipple before he'll eat, and it seems like he's easily distracted from it, turning his head to wander and cry.  At least he takes kmr better, even if it's only a few drops at a time.  Usually kmr will at least get his tummy going and he'll be better about nursing.

We're looking into increasing the humidity as well as the temperature, which we've noticed is far better for him at around 80-82 F than the 77 it sometimes falls to.  We have a space heater with a thermostat pointed away from the cage and a temperature gauge inside of it.  When stores open in the morning we'll pick up a little humidifier and see if we can help those lungs out a little bit.  Cross your fingers!

As far as Penny - we finally have the money for her surgery!!  She's getting her leg fixed up next Tuesday, the 15th.  It's going to be frustrating, and I anticipate a lot of "surprise" costs, but at least it won't hurt her anymore.  Here's hoping they can do a repair!  :)

And now...a comic.

Sharing the bed.

-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~


P.S. -  Kitten Valentine's Day cards are up on my Etsy here.

Kitten Drama

Well, four beautiful, seemingly healthy kittens were all born Tuesday afternoon, one week ago:

Nursing

My all-time favorite kitten picture

Kissin'

Nursing...the wrong side of mum

As you can see, we had two tabbies, one very dark tabby (he looks black, with stripes), and one black kitten who might have had a little bit of striping on her front legs.

Unfortunately, yesterday afternoon I went in to check on them and found the black kitten upside down and passed away.  It was absolutely heartbreaking to watch mom looking around for it when I took it out, but I had to remove it immediately.  Without any concept of what sort of health background these guys or mom had, all I could do was guess.  I recalled that the black kitten had been mewing more than usual and crawling all around the kennel that morning, and took the kitten and my phone to go call to price a necropsy.

A necropsy is a good idea whenever other animals might be in jeopardy.  Yes, sometimes kittens "just die," but if there are three others at stake and such an unknown health status, it's important to know what caused it if possible.  If you think you may need to get a pet necropsied, be sure and refrigerate (not freeze!) it immediately and try to get the procedure arranged within 24 hours so there is minimal tissue decay.

In this case, we called the woman for whom I am fostering these cats, particularly concerned about the mewing and howling the dark striped kitten was making that worried me he had the same condition.  She gave us the number of a vet out of town that had seen the other hoarded cats, and we hopped in the car and made the 30 minute drive out to the sticks.  We brought the dead kitten in a plastic bag, in case it could be of use.  Twice on the drive alone, the dark kitten had to be held and stroked to convince it to stop screaming.

We finally arrived and brought in the kittens, where the vet first thought the dark kitten was only crying because it was hungry or needed to urinate (something mom isn't quite as good about doing for them as nursing).  However, it soon started screaming again and she had a look at it.  It calmed down after being peed and put back with mom, so she decided to take a look at the dead kitten for clues.  The intestines showed it had been being fed regularly and didn't have any problems there, but further investigation showed massively damaged lungs.  They were the same color as the liver...which should definitely not happen.  The kitten had died of pneumonia.

It was difficult to impossible to tell if the dark striped kitten had the same problem and if so, if it would recover.  The dead kitten also showed signs of being pigeon-chested, a genetic deformity that happens in people as well and can make it just that much more difficult for the sick kitten.  So, with fingers and toes crossed, our only options for treatment are two shots of penicillin (one that day and the other tomorrow) and supportive care - frequent attempts at feeding, manually stimulating urination, and keeping the room they were in at a balmy 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

So far it's been about 24 hours and dark kitten has only screamed once, and that was when I tried to feed it two hours after coming home.  Actually, I haven't been supplementing because I can convince it to nurse about once every 30-45 minutes on its own.  I supplement momma with KMR and if I can find it, L-lysine, a medication that is great for helping breakouts of herpesvirus, or rhinotracheitis in cats.  It's better if I can get the kitten to eat naturally, because I don't want to risk aspiration of the KMR into the lungs, which might compound a lung infection into a lethal problem in a very, very short time.  Since we're by no means out of the woods, though, I have the KMR on hand for in case it isn't eating enough.

Herpesvirus, which displays as a recurrent respiratory infection in cats, is most active at temperatures just below normal body heat.  So, by keeping the room at that 80 degrees like I mentioned, we can keep the air going into the kitten lungs warmer than usual.  This may seem like it's bad for pneumonia, but actually, it's going to help the little kitten immune system fight its best battle.  Speaking of, interesting fact - apparently the first kitten or two to be born obtain more colostrum, so naturally have more robust immune systems.  This is why the last two kittens in this case seem to be having a harder time fighting off something that hasn't manifested clinically in the other two.  Voila.  I learned something.

Here are the three little survivors, the black one being my biggest concern (but fighting a great fight!):

I'll keep you guys posted.

Oh, by the way!  I just found out that Penny is going to be receiving at least $300 from a GLC fundraiser!!!  It's not official yet, so I haven't added it into the total, but wouldn't $670 be an amazing number to see?  We are almost there!  :)

See you guys soon,
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

Kitten Milk Replacement

Kitten Milk Replacement, or KMR, is like magic.

Technically this stuff is ONLY for felines, but if you have a rodent in desperate need of protein, milk, or nutrients, this stuff saves lives where nothing else can.  I supply it to pregnant and nursing mice, I give it to sick mice, and in the past it has made the difference for orphaned mice who had nothing else to drink.  And yes, it's even helped save the lives of some orphaned kittens - it's original intent.

It's basically...magic.

When using it for cats, I mix a small bit of evaporated KMR with warm water and blend that into a small amount of wet kitten food.  Part of the reason KMR is so amazing is that unlike cow's milk or infant solution, KMR is lactose-free.  Kitten tummies, and most small animal tummies in fact, can't handle lactose and this can make them gassy or dehydrated (by giving them diarrhea).  Another solution is to add lactase, the enzyme that breaks down lactose, in order to make different forms of milk more digestible, but I prefer mixing KMR into other foods.

KMR is also great for...say...pregnant mothers like Ghost.  Pregnant cats need to eat a lot more protein - kitten food, KMR, and a fresh water supply are all vital to helping her produce milk and build up enough strength to have a successful pregnancy (not to mention she's feeding all those little ones inside of her, too!).

There's more of a difference in kinds of milk than just lactose, though.  Milk from different animals (cow, sheep, goat, etc.) contain different types and amounts of fat.  This fat is important to both mom and babies, as is the protein, so when possible it's important to stick to the right species.  KMR is specifically formulated for cats (in fact, it's against the label to use it differently) and has exactly what they need in it. SO....if you can use KMR, that's your best bet.

Of course, never forget that kittens and any other infant animal (people included) NEED the first 24-48 hours of milk from mom.  This milk is called colostrum and is full of antibodies that protect the kittens from many diseases until they are several weeks old (before which vaccines will only be destroyed by the kitten's natural immunities).  If you know your cat has a disease transmissible by suckling, check with your veterinarian long before the kittens arrive for advice.  It is never advisable to simply skip natural nursing for the first 1-2 days.

So yes!  KMR is amazing stuff.  I have some in my fridge every month of the year - when emergencies come up it's great to have on hand!  :)  By the way, Ghost is doing wonderfully.  No signs of labor yet and she seems to be in wonderful health.  She ate a ton of kitten kibble last night and has been taking regular meals of KMR in watered-down wet food.  She's also quite busy rearranging her nest and, much to my dismay, dragging towels into her litter box.  She is very sociable now, rolling completely over and purring when I pet her, and luckily the investigation is moving in full-swing right now and it doesn't look like anyone is going to try and move her from here.  Hopefully her shocks are done with for awhile.

"Yeeeessss...Pet me moooorrrre.  And look at my niiipppppplleesss... I am so fat and pregnaaaant..."

 Later Gators.
-Miss Mouse
<:3 )~~

Giving Medications - For The Not-So-Healthy Critter

Happy Caturday!

It turns out my boyfriend's dog Diamond, who resides at his parent's house and we are petsitting this weekend, got a nasty ouchie on her leg last week.  Her vet has prescribed clavamox, a common antibiotic, in pill form to help her ward off infection through the injury.  She *hates* it, and is very sneaky about extracting it from whatever food we've hidden it in, spitting it out, and then eating the medicine-free food!  Here's a couple of pictures of the goofball:

Diamond is a German Shorthaired Pointer, a past champion, and quite the diva.

In the interest of Diamond, I'm going to talk a bit about giving oral medications today to our furry friends who happen to not feel so hot.  Since there are many different kinds of medications and methods of administration, I'm only going to cover a few here, but these should be applicable to several different kinds of pets - not just dogs.

First let me point out that some treatments involve vaccines or shots, and should only be given by a professional vet OR under the instruction of one.  I definitely would not recommend giving shots by yourself unless you've had training and are sure about what you're doing.  :)

When it comes to oral medications, you will likely be prescribed either liquid or pills.  Liquid medications might be flavored or might not, and some can be mixed into wet food, whereas some may need to be given straight.  When giving liquid meds, it's important to either keep the syringe you are giving it with very clean or to use single-use syringes.  The droppers that come on the lid do not need to be washed unless you've brought it into contact with food or the animal, in which case a thorough rinsing under tap water will keep contaminants from getting in the medicine.  For small animals, applying the medicine on a cracker, cheerio, or other quickly-edible treat may make things easier.

Pills also usually come with the option to be given with food, which is a huge plus in my opinion!  The common trick is to wrap the pill in cheese or peanut butter, but occasionally your pet will figure that one out (like Diamond did!).  If the pill is a tablet and not a capsule, you may be allowed to cut it into smaller pieces with a pill cutter (check the instructions, first, as some medications are timed release or need to be digested slower), which might mix better into wet food.  Obviously there are special situations that you would not want to hide the pill in a treat, such as if the problem is already causing digestive system problems.  Few smaller animal medications come in pill form, but it is quite common for larger animals like cats and dogs.

If mixing into food or hiding in a treat is not an option, you might have to give the medicine directly.  If your pet is particularly opposed to this, you'll have to take a bit of a more active approach.  When administering to a dog, remember to stay very cheerful and friendly, and give lots of praise.  Back them against something so they can't back away from you, and if someone is helping you have them hold the shoulder area.  Sit with your arm that will NOT be holding the pill closest to them, and use your non-pill hand to ease open the jaws from above.  Do this by applying gentle pressure behind the canines.  Use your pill hand to open the mouth further by pressing gently downward on the bottom jaw, then place the pill as near the back of the tongue as possible.  Don't drop it down their throat or gag them with your hand, though, just place it on the tongue.  Next, close their mouth and hold it down in a normal position until they swallow.

The idea is pretty much the same for cats, except you will need to use your elbow or a friend to hold them in place while giving them their medicine.  The ribcage is your center of control, but don't squeeze hard or you risk hurting them.  When using a dropper it can be helpful to place it at the side of their mouth and push inward with it gently, so the dropper is the first thing that gets in the cat's mouth, then release the fluid at a reasonable pace to avoid choking them.  Smacking is good, and keeps the liquid medication from falling out of their mouth.  Remember to give lots of praise!

For smaller animals, it's quite common to give medications in the water.  The dosage and method will depend on the medication in question and the animal it's being given to.  Keep in mind, however, that some medicines like tetracycline are light sensitive, so covering the bottle with foil might be a good idea.  Most medicines when given this way will require that the water be changed every 1-3 days to keep it fresh.  Some taste bitter, and depending on the instructions, *might* be able to have some sugar mixed in, but the water will need to be changed every day if so.  To make sure the critter is drinking enough of the water to get the right dose, remove other moist aspects of their diet, but remember to compensate with plenty of other foods to keep their strength up.  Lastly, check with a vet or expert to make sure the medicine is okay to be shared if the animal remains in a cage with other, possibly unaffected individuals.  Antibiotics are usually fine to be shared between small animals in the water, as long as the full course is given, and helps to prevent unnoticed symptoms from becoming worse in cagemates.

Common Medications

Here are some common medications that might come up and some general facts about them.  Because every pet is different, always follow the directions on the product and the advice of a veterinary professional.

Clavamox:  Amoxicillin and Clavulanate work together in this name brand antibiotic to ward off infections in dogs and cats.  It is by prescription only, and comes in pill or liquid form.  Nausea can be counteracted by giving food first.  Diarrhea is common and should be addressed with your vet if severe.

Baytril: I have only used enrofloxacin, or Baytril, for rodents before, but I believe it's also prescribed for a wide variety of other pets.  Baytril is another antibiotic, but should not be given to rodents under 3 months of age.  It may be effective against mycoplasma, but it's debatable.  Baytril is also available by prescription only.

Tylosin: I've used tylosin for mice too young to give Baytril and had moderate success.  Once again, it may be effective against mycoplasma, but it's still debatable.  Tylosin is an excellent antibiotic of choice for many other animals, too, including most pets and livestock.  It can be found at feed stores, but veterinary advice is highly recommended for dosages and mode of administration (available for in-the-water and injection).

Tetracycline: I recommend Tetracycline, yet another antibiotic, for anyone who comes to me with respiratory infections, abscesses, or general infections in their mice and other rodents.  It is light sensitive and should be given in a foil-wrapped water bottle.  It comes in liquid, powder, and capsule form and can be found in the fish section of most pet stores or in feed stores.  Wonderful instructions for administration to mice are available here:  http://en.allexperts.com/q/Mice-3824/2009/4/mouse-injured-cat-antibiotic.htm  I believe it can be used for larger animals, too, but I highly encourage seeking vet advice for instructions on how to give it and how much.

Ivermectine/Flea-Tick-Mite Spray:  This applies mostly to smaller pets, as cats and dogs usually receive other common medications to keep the fleas away.  Mites and other skin parasites can come in on bedding, and can cause quite a problem.  There are various sprays to choose from, but it's important to avoid your pet's eyes, freeze incoming bedding, treat weekly including the cage, and follow the instructions on the product you select.  If the spray seems to strongly irritating to your pet, try a spray for a smaller animal.  I believe avian spray is the mildest.

This is a terrific listing of dosages of various medications for rats:  http://www.rmca.org/Articles/dchart.htm  Obviously there are a LOT more meds than this, and I omitted most of the heartworm, flea, and other medications your vet is likely to inform you about on a regular basis. 

Remember to keep your vet's number on hand for emergencies and questions, to always follow their instructions first, and to keep an eye out for side effects including vomiting the medication.  Never quit a round of antibiotics before it's complete - most are 14-30 days.  Quitting early can encourage resistant bacteria to thrive and make treatment much harder.

Okay...obviously there are thousands of books on vet medicine, and this is JUST a bit of an overview for the typical pet owner trying to get their pets to take their medicine.  If you have any questions or corrections about something I've written, catch me at kittuirrel on yahoo or leave me a comment.  I hope you find this useful!  I promise next week the blog will be a bit less technical and a bit more fun.  ;)

PLUS!  I'm starting an animal spotlight on Wednesday.  The first Wednesday of every month will spotlight a species of pet and their care and tidbits.  :)

Thanks for reading!

Miss Mouse